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Threads Of Visual Exploration: Textiles And Allied Practices

By Prof. Rajarshi Sengupta   |   IIT Kanpur
Learners enrolled: 326   |  Exam registration: 58
ABOUT THE COURSE:
This course puts forward an invested and interdisciplinary way of examining, analysing and appreciating Indian textiles drawing on the ongoing scholarly discussions around craft-art interface, visual and contextual analysis of art practices and sustainability. A selected set of textiles and allied craft and art practices from the early modern to the contemporary period in the Indian subcontinent is addressed in this course. By situating textiles within the larger spectrum of artisanal and art practices in given temporal settings, this course emphasises interconnections between makers, communities, processes, objects and consumers. This approach is beneficial for art practitioners, designers, aspiring art historians, and those preparing for competitive examinations.

Studies in Indian textiles have underscored a range of pertinent topics, including textiles and trade networks (Barnes 1997, 2017; Crill 2006, 2008; Peck 2013), materials and techniques of textile making (Bean 1989; Cecil 2013; Cohen 2016), textiles and identity formation (Edwards 2011, 2016) and innovation and sustainability (Sethi 2016; Venkatesan 2010). Alongside, fresh perspectives into textile makers’ intelligence (Fee 2020; Sengupta 2021) and sensory perception of historical textiles and other artifacts (Houghteling 2022) situated Indian textiles in the intersection of art history, material culture, design history and practice-based studies. Drawing on these ongoing discussions, the course aims to broaden the scope to consider the concepts and tangible presence of textiles and allied practices and their deep impact on societie

INTENDED AUDIENCE: Students and professionals in Fine Arts, Design and Humanities
Summary
Course Status : Completed
Course Type : Core
Language for course content : English
Duration : 8 weeks
Category :
  • Humanities and Social Sciences
Credit Points : 2
Level : Undergraduate
Start Date : 24 Jul 2023
End Date : 15 Sep 2023
Enrollment Ends : 07 Aug 2023
Exam Registration Ends : 21 Aug 2023
Exam Date : 24 Sep 2023 IST

Note: This exam date is subject to change based on seat availability. You can check final exam date on your hall ticket.


Page Visits



Course layout

Week 1:
Visual Exploration and Textiles
The relevance of textiles in studying art history and material culture 
Identification and salient features of different forms of Indian textiles
Visual exploration and art theory 

Week 2:
Woven Textiles and Allied Practices 
Brocade and extra weft weaving forms and their co-relation with architecture and artifacts
Baluchar saris of Bengal, Kanchipuram saris of Tamil Nadu
Figuration and geometric abstraction 

Week 3:
Textiles and Mughal Miniature Paintings 
Mughal brocade, velvet and woven rugs and their relationship with miniature paintings 
Representational space in textiles and miniatures
Interrelations between courtly art and textile practices beyond visual appearance 

Week 4:
Kalamkari and Allied Practices 
Dyed, painted, printed and resist-dyed cottons of the Coromandel
Relationship between kalamkari, architecture and Deccani craft
Kalamkari and trade networks 
Artisanal perspectives into art history 

Week 5:
Embroidered Narratives
Embroidery on textiles as a way of narrating and overwriting stories
Kashmir shawls, rumals of Chamba and kantha quilts of Bengal and their allied practices
Needle of embroidery as a tool for drawing and writing
Workmanship, domesticity and textiles 

Week 6:
Colonial Interventions and Khadi
Textiles into colonial catalogues and exhibitions
Marginalisation of indigenous textiles and the rise of anti-colonial resistance 
The long-lasting impact of Khadi in nation-building and self-sufficiency

Week 7:
Fashion in the Post-independence India 
Indigenous textiles and designers’ interventions
Redefining of traditional meaning and associations of textiles
Visvakarma exhibitions and artisan-designer collaborations 
Sustainability, slow fashion and their social impact

Week 8:
Textiles and Contemporary Art Practice in India 
Textile as a medium of contemporary art, textile in contemporary art
Nilima Sheikh’s textile-like scrolls, Shruti Mahajan’s transference of weaving metaphors into paper
Contemporary dyed textiles of M. Kailasham and Ajit Das 
Textiles as part of performance art

Books and references

1. Ages of Sarasa. Fukuoka: Fukuoka Art Museum, Kyushu Asahi Broadcasting Co., Ltd., and The Asahi Shimbun, 2014.
2. Aitken, Molly Emma. The Intelligence of Tradition in Rajput Court Painting. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2010.
3. Barnes, Ruth. Indian block-printed textiles in Egypt: The Newberry collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. Oxford: Clarendon Press; New York: Oxford University Press, 1997.
4. Steven Cohen, and Rosemary Crill. Trade, Temple, and Court: Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection. Mumbai: India Book House Pvt. Ltd, 2002.
5. ed. Textiles in Indian Ocean Societies. London and New York: RoutledgeCurzon, 2005.
6. “Indian Cotton for Cairo: The Royal Ontario Museum’s Gujarati Textiles and the Early Western Indian Ocean Trade.” Textile History 48, no. 1 (2017): 15-30.
7. Bean, Susan S. “Gandhi and Khadi: The fabric of Indian Independence.” In Cloth and Human Experience, edited by Annette B. Weiner and Jane Schneider, 355-76. Washington D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1989.
8. Cecil, Bessie. Batik Sutra: Tagore, Travels & Textiles. Kolkata: Sutra, 2011.
9. “Chay Red: Forgotten Dye of the Coromandel Coast.” In Marg 65, no. 2 (2013): 68-73.
10. Chattopadhyay, Kamaladevi. Indian Handicrafts. New Delhi: Allied Publishers, 1963.
11. Cohen, Steven. “Materials and Making.” In The Fabric of India, edited by Rosemary Crill, 16-77. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 2016.
12. Crill, Rosemary, ed. Textiles from India: The Global Trade. Calcutta: Seagull Books, 2006.
13. Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 2008.
14. ed. The Fabric of India. London: V&A Publishing, 2015.
Edwards, Eiluned. Textiles and Dress of Gujarat. Ahmedabad and London: V&A Publishing in association with Mapin Publishing, 2011.
15. Block Printed Textiles of India: Imprints of Culture. New Delhi: Niyogi Books, 2016.
16. “Ajrakh: From Caste Dress to Catwalk.” Textile History 47, no. 2 (2016): 146-70.
17. Fee, Sarah., ed. Cloth That Changed the World: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2020.
18. Houghteling, Sylvia. The Art of Cloth in Mughal India. Princeton and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 2022.
19. “Kalamkari: The Richness of its Traditions.” Art Varta (2016): 130-7.
20. “Sentiment in Silks: Safavid Figural Textiles in Mughal Courtly Culture.” In Affect, Emotion, Subjectivity in Early Modern Muslim Empires: New Studies in Ottoman, Safavid, and Mughal Art and Culture, edited by Kishwar Rizvi, 124-47. Leiden and Boston: Brill, 2018.
21. Mamidipudi, Annapurna, and Wiebe E. Bijker. “Innovation in Indian Handloom Weaving.” Technology and Culture 59, no. 3 (2018): 505-45.
22. Peck, Amelia, ed. Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013.
23. Shah, Archana. Crafting a Future: Stories of Indian Textiles and Sustainable Practices. New Delhi: Niyogi Books, 2021.
24. Sengupta, Rajarshi. “From Reference to Knowledge Repositories: On Mimetic Aspects of Kalamkari Making,” South Asian Studies 37, no.1 (2021): 51-71.
25. “Performing Histories: Enduring Dyes and Waterways in Artisanal Lives.” Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice (2019), DOI:10.1080/20511787.2019.1648992.
26. “An Artisanal History of Kalam?” Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice 7, no. 1 (2019): 25-37.
27. Sethi, Ritu. “Shaping Textile Futures: Those Who Led the Way,” Marg 67, no. 4 (2016): 22-31.
28. Venkatesan, Soumhya. “Learning to Weave; Weaving to Learn … What?.” In Making Knowledge: Explorations of the Indissoluble Relation Between Mind, Body and Environment, edited by H.J. Marchand, 150-66. London: Wiley-Blackwell, 2010.

Instructor bio

Prof. Rajarshi Sengupta

IIT Kanpur
Prof. Rajarshi Sengupta is a practitioner and art historian, presently an assistant professor in Fine Arts, Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Kanpur, India. He previously taught at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Kangra (2021), and University of Hyderabad (2019-21). Sengupta completed his Phd in art history from the University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada (2019). His thesis, titled “Making Kalamkari Textiles: Artisans ad Agency in Coromandel, India,” reconstructed the understudied histories and knowledge structure of the dyed, painted and printed textile makers of southeastern India. Sengupta received the IARTS Textiles of India Grant, Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto (2017-18), and has co-curated an art-research project titled ‘WE’, a शब्द/ شبد ”, with Baishali Ghosh and received a curatorial grant from the Korean Cultural Centre, New Delhi, India (2016). He was involved in the exhibition Cloth That Changed the World: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz (2020), Royal Ontario Museum, curated by Dr. Sarah Fee, and contributed to the exhibition catalogue.

Course certificate

The course is free to enroll and learn from. But if you want a certificate, you have to register and write the proctored exam conducted by us in person at any of the designated exam centres.
The exam is optional for a fee of Rs 1000/- (Rupees one thousand only).
Date and Time of Exams: 24 September 2023 Morning session 9am to 12 noon; Afternoon Session 2pm to 5pm.
Registration url: Announcements will be made when the registration form is open for registrations.
The online registration form has to be filled and the certification exam fee needs to be paid. More details will be made available when the exam registration form is published. If there are any changes, it will be mentioned then.
Please check the form for more details on the cities where the exams will be held, the conditions you agree to when you fill the form etc.

CRITERIA TO GET A CERTIFICATE

Average assignment score = 25% of average of best 6 assignments out of the total 8 assignments given in the course.
Exam score = 75% of the proctored certification exam score out of 100

Final score = Average assignment score + Exam score

YOU WILL BE ELIGIBLE FOR A CERTIFICATE ONLY IF AVERAGE ASSIGNMENT SCORE >=10/25 AND EXAM SCORE >= 30/75. If one of the 2 criteria is not met, you will not get the certificate even if the Final score >= 40/100.

Certificate will have your name, photograph and the score in the final exam with the breakup.It will have the logos of NPTEL and IIT Kanpur .It will be e-verifiable at nptel.ac.in/noc.

Only the e-certificate will be made available. Hard copies will not be dispatched.

Once again, thanks for your interest in our online courses and certification. Happy learning.

- NPTEL team


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